I
often wake up before the sun does. My alarm goes off and, unlike those years of
reluctantly rolling out of bed for school, I stretch and stand, excited to
start a day at sea. Because looking out at the view beyond my balcony instantly
erases any worries or bad dreams that might've plagued me throughout the night.
They're worthless against the silhouette of coconuts hanging from that
three-story palm tree and the shape of St John in the distance and the pink
hues reflecting off the current of the waking Caribbean.
After
a couple cups of coffee in my sunrise-lit studio apartment, I catch a $2 local
bus and ride it for about 45 minutes, until I get to Yacht Haven Grande. I get
off, walk to wiko dock and wait for my crew to arrive beneath a pink sky,
sipping at the remnants of coffee in my mason jar.
When
the boys arrive, we get in our little dinghy and ride past monstrous, city-size
cruise ships and million dollar yachts docked in Havensight. We motor past
privately owned sailboats on mooring balls (some with barking dogs on board),
through the bay to our pretty little catamaran--the Castaway Cat. We get on
board and get her ready for the day. We wipe down the seats, set up the bar,
and make sure the restrooms are cleaned. We unzip the sail bags, put out the
wench handles, and tie five big fenders on the port side. Then, we take off the
safety line and get off the mooring to go pick up our group of tourists from
the cruise ships.
When
captain gets the boat close enough, we jump off and tie lines tight around
cleats on the dock, making sure to get the stern as close as possible. Then we
say hello to another group of strange, new faces from all over the world, ask
them take their shoes off (for our barefoot trip), and welcome them aboard. We
serve them ice water to the tune of Bob Marley as they take their seats around
the catamaran.
After
we spring off the dock we put the fenders away, put their shoes in a safe/dry
place, and pull the snorkel vests out onto the forward nets. Then captain slows
the engines and we ring the bell to get their attention so that I can belt out
a "welcome aboard" speech. I introduce the crew--Jordan, Tony, and
Captain Tom--so that they know who to blame if anything goes wrong. I go over a
few safety procedures, such as where the life vests are located and where to
find the rum incase the boat somehow starts to sink and how they should toss
the bottles into the dinghy so we can ride to safety in style. I ask them to
never put paper products into the toilets because I'm the only one with hands
small enough to unclog them... and I'm also their bartender for the day,
"So please keep my hands clean!" I tell them we're not allowed to
serve rum on the way to our snorkeling spot because some of them will see twice
as many fishies, and that's just not fair. But on the way back, they can have
as much rum punch as they can handle.
And
then I finish my speech and all the guests cheer. Captain turns the ship into
the wind and we raise the main sail and they cheer a little more. Then we pass
out snorkel gear all the way to Buck Island. If we finish with time to spare,
we socialize with the guests and ask them where they're from and point out
neighboring islands for them to ooh and aahh at.
When
we get to buck island we get on the mooring in the cove. We call everyone to
the upper deck and pass out snorkel vests as Jordon says the snorkel speech and
makes them all laugh. "If your mask fogs up in the water and you don't
feel comfortable spitting in your own mask, grab one of us. We're a full service
crew--we'll spit in it for you." He tells them how to snorkel and
what to watch out for in the water. "Does anyone know how to cure a sea
sting? Right! You pee on it. Once again, we are a full service
crew." We remind them not to walk in their fins on the boat, so as
not to break their faces. Then we get them in the water and we lead them on
snorkel tours. We point out fish and pull up sea creatures for them to pass
around, like collector urchins and brittle sea stars and sometimes, if I can
free dive deep enough, a live queen conch. We swim with sea turtles and sting
rays and look at a ship wreck.
Then
we get back on the boat, put away snorkel gear, and start serving up rum punch,
because after all the saltwater the guests have certainly guzzled, they're mighty
thirsty. After gear is put away, we do a head count to make sure everyone’s
onboard. You'd be surprised how many times people end up on the wrong boat. "Why can't I find my bag?" Maybe because it's on that ship over there? If the count is right, weraise the stairs, and get off the mooring. Then we raise the main sail
and the gibb sail--and, if the winds are good, captain turns the engines off. We
ride full sail and booze cruise all the way back toward St Thomas. The guests
get drunk and we all dance to songs like Shout and Mambo #5.
And
then, depending on the trip (sometimes we do short trips and sometimes we do
full-days), we'll either take the guests back to their ship or we take them to
Water Island for a free buffet lunch on Honeymoon Beach. We don't make as much
money on the full day trips, but going to Honeymoon is such a treat for me and
my crew. Because instead of mooring, we get the boat in close and anchor into
the beach so that the guests can walk off the boat into waist-deep water. And
while they're eating and drinking and playing for about an hour and a half, we
crew members get to eat for free and play in the water for an hour and a half,
too. It's almost not fair that we get paid for it.
When
the time is up at Honeymoon, we pull up the anchor, pull up the stairs, and go
back through the bay to the cruise ships. We continue to serve rum punch and
party with the guests the whole way there. When we get close, Tony gives a tip
speech to remind everyone that we get paid the same as bartenders and waiters,
and that tips are greatly appreciated. He tells them to go on trip advisor and
write a review saying they had the best day of their lives--so that we don't
ever have to go back to the states and get real jobs. He suggests that, if they
have a complaint, they should write it on the back of a 50 dollar bill and hand
it to one of the crew (we'd surely read it). They all laugh and spill their rum and thank us for a
wonderful day.
When
we get to the dock, we cleat the lines and get the stern as close as possible.
We pour the guests' shoes out in a pile and match them up at the end of the
dock. Then we help them off the boat and hold a "love jug" in front
of them as they depart. Sometimes we get handshakes and hugs, and we're often
asked to be in pictures.
Once
they're all off, we take our cat back to her mooring ball and clean her. We zip
the sail bags, clean the restrooms, and scrub the decks. We almost always have
a couple beers as we count our tips and recount the trips. And then we get into our little dinghy again and ride back to wiko dock, to watch the sunset over a few
more beers at the local outdoor bar in Yacht Haven. We usually find the other
crews there, from the other catamarans in our company. Amber tells me about the
trips on her catamaran, and we make our way home together. We say goodnight to our sweet security lady and then go straight to bed--so
that we're ready to begin another day at sea.
4 comments:
Great narrative! I feel like I was right there working on the catamaran with you :)
Ah that sounds like such a beautiful and truly amazing life! I'm envious of you and your slice of heaven - and so inspired that you made the leap of faith in to doing something because your heart said so.
This actually sounds like heaven!
Your life, I swear - AMAZING! What I would give to get out of the dead end desk job and flee to an island like this... Living the life!!
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